FESTOOL Guide Rail
Serves as cut line and prevents
tear-out and splintering of the cut,
for perfect cut results.
Reduces friction between the tool
and the guide rail for easier, more
fluid cutting action.
Though originally designed for use
with Festool plunge cut saws, guide
rails are a perfect match for routers
Non-skid, self-clamping strips
Dual clamping strips on the bottom prevent movement during
the cutting operationăless set-up time and better results.
Extruded aluminum profile is robust and lightweight.
Available in many lengths
From 32” (800 mm) to 16.5ę (5000 mm) _
a guide rail for every application.
Ability to connect together
Create custom lengths, with easy assembly and transport.
In addition to the dual non-skid strips, the guide rail
incorporates a t-slot underneath for unobtrusive clamping.
Infinitely adjustable and provides front and rear stop
position for accurate and repeatable results.
Replacing the Festool Guide Rail Splinter Guard
Here are some pointers for replacing the rubber splinter guard on the
edge of the Festool guide rail:
Pull off the old rubber strip
Clean off any old adhesive paper that is left on the aluminum. A nylon
scraper is good for this because it wonęt gouge the aluminum. Even
better is a stick of tight grained hardwood with the tip cleanly cut on a
bevel. The end grain seems to snag the rolled up adhesive up quite
If the leftover residue of the original adhesive is still tacky, the new
rubber strip can be applied without any further cleaning. However, if
the adhesive is old and dried up, it is best to clean the aluminum with
acetone or lacquer thinner. Then clean with denatured alcohol because
most shop solvents come in metal cans and can be contaminated with
a bit of oil. (from the manufacturing process of the metal container)
Peel off some of the protective strip from the new rubber splinter
guard. Begin the placement of the strip 1/8th to 1/4 – from the end of
the guide rail. This helps to prevent snagging the end of the strip when
the rail is transported. Lay out the rubber as it comes off the roll
without stretching it to line it up. Just watch that the inside edge
of the rubber is against the aluminum ridge, but do not stretch the
splinter guard rubber. When you reach the end, make sure that it does
not butt up to the end of the aluminum. Cut it in _” if necessary. Then
squeeze it down with your thumbs all along the rubber strip.
To trim the edge of the rubber, set the saw at a shallow depth at
about 6 or 7 mm. If you have the fine tooth blade installed, set the
speed control down to slowest setting. This will help prevent the
rubber from burning onto to the blade teeth. If you have the coarse
cut blade with few teeth, run the saw at full speed. It is best to make
the first cut with the guide rail on the surface of piece of sacrificial
material. Junk plywood or cardboard will do.