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Festool 491741  Glide Strip-Guide Rails : Splinterguards Festool 491741 Glide Strip
Ace Tool Price: $44.00
Festool 491582  Limit Stop-Track Saws : Stops and Accessories Festool 491582 Limit Stop
Ace Tool Price: $16.00
Festool 488752  Guide Stop-Routers : Edge Guides, Stops and Circles Festool 488752 Guide Stop
Ace Tool Price: $52.00
Festool 491588  Angle Unit-Guide Rails : Kits and Other Accessories Festool 491588 Angle Unit
Ace Tool Price: $118.00
Festool 491594  Quick Clamp-Guide Rails : Clamps Festool 491594 Quick Clamp
Ace Tool Price: $48.00

FESTOOL Guide Rail

Integrated splinterguard Serves as cut line and prevents tear-out and splintering of the cut, for perfect cut results. Glide strip Reduces friction between the tool and the guide rail for easier, more fluid cutting action. System integration Though originally designed for use with Festool plunge cut saws, guide rails are a perfect match for routers and jigsaws. Non-skid, self-clamping strips Dual clamping strips on the bottom prevent movement during the cutting operation�less set-up time and better results. Lightweight Extruded aluminum profile is robust and lightweight. Available in many lengths From 32� (800 mm) to 16.5� (5000 mm) _ a guide rail for every application. Ability to connect together Create custom lengths, with easy assembly and transport. Clamp integration In addition to the dual non-skid strips, the guide rail incorporates a t-slot underneath for unobtrusive clamping. Limit stops Infinitely adjustable and provides front and rear stop position for accurate and repeatable results.
Replacing the Festool Guide Rail Splinter Guard

Here are some pointers for replacing the rubber splinter guard on the edge of the Festool guide rail: Pull off the old rubber strip Clean off any old adhesive paper that is left on the aluminum. A nylon scraper is good for this because it won�t gouge the aluminum. Even better is a stick of tight grained hardwood with the tip cleanly cut on a bevel. The end grain seems to snag the rolled up adhesive up quite effectively. If the leftover residue of the original adhesive is still tacky, the new rubber strip can be applied without any further cleaning. However, if the adhesive is old and dried up, it is best to clean the aluminum with acetone or lacquer thinner. Then clean with denatured alcohol because most shop solvents come in metal cans and can be contaminated with a bit of oil. (from the manufacturing process of the metal container) Peel off some of the protective strip from the new rubber splinter guard. Begin the placement of the strip 1/8th to 1/4 � from the end of the guide rail. This helps to prevent snagging the end of the strip when the rail is transported. Lay out the rubber as it comes off the roll without stretching it to line it up. Just watch that the inside edge of the rubber is against the aluminum ridge, but do not stretch the splinter guard rubber. When you reach the end, make sure that it does not butt up to the end of the aluminum. Cut it in _� if necessary. Then squeeze it down with your thumbs all along the rubber strip. To trim the edge of the rubber, set the saw at a shallow depth at about 6 or 7 mm. If you have the fine tooth blade installed, set the speed control down to slowest setting. This will help prevent the rubber from burning onto to the blade teeth. If you have the coarse cut blade with few teeth, run the saw at full speed. It is best to make the first cut with the guide rail on the surface of piece of sacrificial material. Junk plywood or cardboard will do.